Sunday, December 25, 2011

How to cross the road in Indonesia

Learn immediately or quickly become a statistic: I realized this on the first day. Next day, I stepped into the path of a hundred snarling motorbikes and nearly became a statistic. In Indonesia, as many countries of the world, pedestrians are legitimate candidates for roadkill, or a nuisance, at best. My daily crossing was not merely a busy highway, but a main artery: a national road. Container trucks, natural gas and petrol tankers, cars, medium lorries, and motorbikes all jostled for space. The fun was compounded with unscheduled “counterflows” and people driving on the left-hand side. A year and a half later, here’s what I learned.

The number one rule is to give your full attention to what you’re doing. The immediate concern is the lane nearest you and a little less, the next one. To think of the whole road to the other side - the entirety of your undertaking - is like proposing to live a lifetime in a day: you wouldn’t do it at all.

Naturally, the first thing you'll be looking for is where other people are crossing. This may or may not work as that crossing might be too far from where you are.

Look for the narrowest strip of road. Scout about 100 yards or more upstream and downstream of where you want to cross. The narrow portions usually result in backed-up traffic which chokes vehicles and motorcycles. They also give you the shortest distance to the road median where there are slightly better odds of safety.

Be very wary of motorcycles. They are the unpredictable factor of road traffic and are likely to be aggressive and downright deadly. They will gun their engines at the slightest hint of open space so stay alert even when crossing a space that has opened between larger vehicles. Other than Jakarta, motorcycles are also tolerated by the police to ride on the wrong side of the road, INCLUDING sidewalks. So, when crossing, look to BOTH sides of the road regardless on the lane you are on.

Take advantage of traffic jams but keep an eye out for motorcycles trying to squeeze between vehicles. This means that even when you’re squarely on one side of the road going a particular direction, you have remain alert for motorcycles when crossing between the lanes of that side, even when the cars have stopped.

Take advantage of meridian islands, street light posts, and any barriers. Stay behind them particularly when caught by the traffic light. Be willing to stay on the meridian if stranded there, but heaven help you, try to never be caught at an unprotected meridian.

Have infinite patience. Do not force a crossing when your mind and your gut tell you not to. This may sound like New Age advice, but believe me you’ll know when it’s not right to cross.

Look for stop lights, if any, but also consider the hour. Traffic lights are usually respect during work hours and when cops are around. Nevertheless, stay wary and don’t bet your life on the light. Expect motorists trying to beat the light.

Cross only where you have a clear view of oncoming traffic. Avoid blind curves just after stoplights, and do not cross where the road bottoms out from an extended downhill drive.